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Gyers Gysers everywhere

August 19, 2006 by Jon Brown Leave a Comment

Today I lesuirely made my way from the RV Parking lot in Grand Teton to another monsterous, but slightly nicer campground in Yellowstone. At least this one feels like a campground, but it’s still too crammed in. Too many sites all to close together… to many huge motorhomes everywhere. No wildlife about. There is a seperate tent camping area here, but it was full, although walking through it it doesn’t really look any better than where I’m at. On a postivie note at least there are available campsites here for those that drive in without reservations, which often is not the case in Yosemite.

The day started in Grand Teton National Park with a drive past Jenny Lake which was quite beauitful. Some day I’d like to come back and hike the canyons behind it. There is actually a ferry service across the lake for hikers that want to skip the hike around the lake. After the lake, I drove up “Signal Mountain” which promised a great view of the whole valley, but from the lookout you could really only see eastward, which is away from the Teton’s themselves, and not as dramatic a view as you’d expect. The view was also obsucred by smoke in the sky from wild fires buring to the east. In fact those same fires were obscruing the view of the Tetons as well. From just below the look out there is a little trail which I couldn’t take because of the dog. I think from that trail you could see westward toward the Tetons, but there wasn’t much point in it due ot the smoke. Since with the expection of a short walk around the parking lot at Crater Lake Tucker spent all day yesterday in the car I thought he’d like a little play time. So we drove up 3 miles up a rough dirt road to the edge of the National Park which is where the National Forest beings. For those that don’t know pretty much everwhere that isn’t paved in a National Park is off-limits to dogs. National Forests on the other hand are the complete opposite, with most allowing dogs off-leash so long as they are under voice control. Yeah! We just took a short hike up a small river, but Tucker was so excited running back and forth he at least quaderupled my distance. He loves running and playing in the water, and it was good for him to get a natural bath too. Doggie play time mission accomplished it was finally time to head to Yellowstone

We made it into Yellowstone around 3pm. On the drive in from the south enterance I took in a couple beauitful waterfalls in Lewis Canyon and then made my way to Old Faithful. Wow! Old Faithful is lame, but everything else around it is amazingly super duper cool. Really, Old Faithful isn’t that lame, I mean it is a gyser that shoots water up in the air with amazing predictablity and regularity, but the other thermal features really are way cooler, or hotter if you prefer. There are beautifully colored pools tand constantly bubbling gysers that are just facisnating and breathtaking. IMHO, they are way more interesting and worth while. Tucker got to come see Old Faithful erupt, although he was even less impressed than I was. Unfortutantly he couldn’t walk on the rest of the boardwalk that meandered through the rest of the gysers and pools so he was bansihed back to the van while I explored. After a couple hours in the Old Faithful area I thought it’d be nice to find a campsite before sunset for a change and headed to Madison (the campground). Although I almost didn’t make it before sunset due to an Elk that was posing for photograhpers just accross a creek.

Filed Under: Journal, Travel

Detour after Detour

August 18, 2006 by Jon Brown Leave a Comment

Today I woke up in in a Wal-Mart parking lot in Boise, Idaho with plans on making a quick (7 hour) drive to Yellowstone… but then I noticed something on the map called the Craters of the Moon National Monument. It didn’t look too out of the way so I figured what the heck sieze the day. Then it occurred to me that the route I was planning on taking was also skipping Grand Teton National Park, which I could go through on the way to Yellowstone without going to far out of the way as well. So tonight, I’m sleeping in the Gros Venture campground in Grand Teton NP. Roughly 375mi covered today.

Before getting started this morning in Boise I also wasted a couple hours running around trying to find adjuster screws for my headlights, which can’t be found anywhere in Idaho. I’ll have to wait until PA when I can order them from a Vanagon place. I also ran another errand which was to stop by a AAA office and pick up a proper map for Yellowstone, which the Walnut Creek office in California office didn’t really have. I must say again how cool it is to be able to find free WiFi location. I found one and used it to find everywhere else I needed to go in Boise. Interestingly I was going to drive across town to a coffee shop with free WiFi when I noticed a business name I’d seen on the WiFi list, so I took a chance and drove by it. The WiFi at the place I noticed wasn’t public/free and the bussiness wasn’t open yet, but pizza/sports bar a couple doors further down the strip mall did have an open WiFi connection so I hopped on it to look for eveything I needed. Unfortunatly nobody had what I was looking for so I’ll keep driving with slightly cross-eyed headlights. I’m not really driving much at night anyway and really it’s more of an anoyance then a problem at the momment.

So as I was saying I was driving along and glancing at the map when I noticed this place called “Craters of the Moon National Monument”. I noticed it because the the map showed an area of lava fields which just seemed strange. Typing it into the GPS said that driving by would not really add any time to the drive, in fact I think it was a little shorter but put me on smaller roads. The road also happened to be under heavy construction so several miles are just dirt and gravel with construction detours going on. I’ve see a LOT of construction detours on this trip, especially along highway 1. I digress, this was actually a pretty nice dirt and gravel road as such roads go, which is to say it was smooth. When I finally arrived I was really impressed by this little national monument, defintely worth the slight detour. The lava is cool (get the pun). I’ve seen lots of lava in Hawaii, so it’s not new to me, but it’s still amazing to look at all the shapes that gets into. The highlight of the short loop road however were the lava caves. There are three lava tubes/caves of differing sizes that you can hike into. One has a huge high ceiling but the roof is frequently collapsed so you navigate it without a flashlight or headlamp, but the other two get utterly totally pitch black as you go deeper into them. It was a bit freaky at first going into the total darkness alone with just my weak Petezl Tikka Headlamp. After a few minutes though my eyes started to adjust and it wasn’t as hard to see. The freakyness went away, a little, but never entirely. I can understand the rush cavers get exploring these things. Of the two dark caves, one has a ceiling over 10 feet high, but the other one was such that you frequently needed to watch your head and there are places you needed to crawl to get through. Really a fun a worthwhile detour.

It was just after leaving the Crater of the Moon National Monument that it occurred to me I could/should drive into Yellowstone by driving through Grand Teton National Park. This realy only occurred to me since the Yellowstone map I picked up that moring in Boise, included the map for Grand Teton, otherwise I probably would have skipped it. Many days ago when planning ahead I’d made the decsion to skip Grand Teton. I’d seen the Tetons many years ago on a ski trip to Jackson Hole Wyoming with Jeff and his college ski club, it seemed reasonable to skip them in the interest of expediance. But really, it just doesn’t make sense to get this close and not take the chance to see it all again, and besides all we did was see the Tetons from a distance we never drove through the park and saw the rest of it. So toward the Tetons I went.

I’ve been seeing these great old old barns and buildings in fields all over the place, from Oregon all the way though to Wyomoing. Occasionally I’ll stop and take a picture, but all to often I don’t because there isn’t somewhere to stop or I’m just feelings like I want to keep moving. Just past Swan Valley and before Victor however I saw several barns and building and stopped at two locations for a couple really beautiful shoots. They are amazingly typical, which isn’t to say they are quite “eveywhere”, but they are not as rare as one might think. I could spend weeks just driving around photographing these old barns.

The other thing I saw today was all these farm storage buildings with earthen roofs. The first one I saw looked novel, but then I saw dozens more. The have earth berms built up on both sides of the building and then the roof is covered with several feet of dirt as well. Most of the barns look pretty old as well, but this is a great insulation technic that is making it’s way back into energy efficent building today.

The other thing one can’t help but wonder seeing all the old buildings and wide open spaces is what it must have been like to see this area hundreds of years ago. The native americans and the settlers must have seen this as boundless and limitless space.

Tonight I ended up in Gross Ventre campground in Grand Teton National Park. I got in late and the “good” campgrounds in the park are all full, it is Friday night and fishing season aparently. This is campground is inside the park, but on the outskirts. It is huge and feels more like a RV park than a campground. Gross Adventure would by an apt name for it as well. No matter I parked at 9pm, I’ll be out early to try to find some hiking and see the sights and then make my way into Yellowstone.

Filed Under: Journal

Sleeping at Wal-Mart

August 17, 2006 by Jon Brown Leave a Comment

I made it to Boise today. It was a very productive day of driving (625 mi) and I hope it’ll give me plenty of time in Yellowstone over the next couple days. Tomorrow I continue on to Yellowstone , it’s 420 miles to Old Faithful. I’ll spend tomorrow night in Yellowstone and then all day the following day, and maybe another night… at least that’s the plan. Then I’ll head east quickly. I now trying to get to PA by Friday in hopes I can sign escrow papers there and get them back in the mail on Friday as well. Not critical, but it’d be nice to make sure nothing delays escrow.

So this morning I woke up in a beautiful campground near the lighthouse at Cape Blanco, Oregon. After a simple oatmeal breakfast I set out north and then east to Crater Lake National Park. It wasn’t something I desperately wanted to see, but I was close so I “made” it on my way. It was impressive, but not the kind of park I’d spend long in. There just doesn’t seem to be much to do there. Anyway, after a strech of the legs and lots of panoramic picture taking I headed north out of the park and then toward Bend, Oregon. Bend has a reputation as an otudoorsy town and judging just by the number of SUV’s and Subaru’s with car racks for bikes and kayaks, I’d believe it. However I get the impression it’s a bit like Orange County in that the town isn’t anything special. In fact it’s kind of dull, at least the part I saw. It looks to be surrounded by cool stuff though. Maybe I just didn’t see the “good” parts, it wasn’t somehwere I planned on going so I didn’t know where to look. Anyway, feeling good to keep driving I figured I’d make it at least ot Burns, Oregon and sleep there for the night. Then it occured to me that I could sleep at Wal-Mart for free and it’d be just as good as the crumy campgrounds I’d find in the middle of the high plains around Burns. The nearest Wal-Mart however (in the direction I was going anyway) was just inside Idaho in Nampa or a few miles further in Boise. I drove by the Nampa Wal-mart and was a bit intimidated by the fact I didn’t see any RV’s parked there. Anyway, here I am in the parking lot of Wal-Mart in Boise, at 12:30am local time parked amoung a dozen RV’s and about to catch a few hours sleep before heading for Yellowstone NP at sunrise… Goodnight.

Filed Under: Journal

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